01 · Full-service interior design

Interior design that decides the whole room before you order anything.

For homeowners furnishing a room, planning a renovation or making selections for a new build—in Charlotte.

Home office with a pale wood desk, drum pendant and linen drapery to the floor
Living room with a marble fireplace and sculptural coffee tableFull-Service Interior Design

What it includes

Full-service interior design is one plan for the entire room: layout, finishes, paint, lighting, furniture, window treatments and the final styling, decided together and in the right order. I work from your actual measurements, the light the room gets at the hour you use it, and the finishes that are already staying—flooring, stone, trim, a fireplace you are not touching. What you receive is a direction specific enough to order from, not a mood board you still have to interpret.

The failure mode this removes is the room bought one piece at a time. Each purchase is defensible on its own—the sofa was on sale, the rug was the right color, the light fixture was beautiful in the showroom—and together they do not agree. The scale is off by six inches, the wood tones fight, the paint that looked warm on the chip reads green against the floor. The expensive part is that the pieces which go wrong are usually the ones you cannot return: custom upholstery, fabricated drapery, tile that is already on the wall.

Projects run from a single room to a whole house, including renovations and new builds. In the Charlotte area I measure and walk the rooms myself and I am there on install day. Virtually, nationwide, the same work runs from your photographs, measurements and samples, with placement handled by you or your contractor from the drawings.

  • Space planning and furniture layout drawn to your measurements
  • A room-by-room design direction with materials, colors and finishes
  • Paint selections coordinated across adjoining rooms and sightlines
  • Lighting plan: fixture selections, placement and switching
  • Furniture, rug and fabric selections with dimensions and specifications
  • Window treatment design, fabrics and hardware
  • Contractor- and workroom-ready specifications you can hand over
  • Install-day placement, hanging and final styling

Who it suits

This is the right service if…

Interior design most often runs alongside kitchen & bath design when a renovation is part of the project, and furniture sourcing & procurement once the selections are approved and someone has to place, track and chase the orders.

How it runs

What happens, step by step.

  1. 01

    Tell me about the house

    You send photographs, measurements or a floor plan if you have one, and an honest account of what is not working. A real budget range and any fixed dates belong here too—a closing, a holiday, a baby—because they change what I recommend, not just when.

  2. 02

    The walkthrough

    In Charlotte I come to the house, measure, and look at the light at the time of day you actually live in the room. Virtually we do the same walkthrough on a call, with your samples in hand. This is where we agree what stays, what goes, and what the room has to do—seating for six, a desk that is not obviously a desk, a rug that survives a dog.

  3. 03

    Your design direction

    You see the plan as one thing rather than a list: layout, finishes, paint, lighting, furniture and window treatments together, with dimensions and specifications. Revisions happen at this stage, which is the point of it—moving a sofa on a drawing costs nothing, moving it after delivery costs a restocking fee or the whole piece.

  4. 04

    Ordering and install day

    With the plan approved you can place the orders yourself from the specifications, or hand the ordering to me. Either way the last day is a real one: furniture placed, art hung, lamps wired and the room styled, so you get a finished room rather than a delivery of boxes.

What clients say

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Before you book

Questions worth asking.

Can I do just one room?

Yes, and many projects start that way. The thing worth deciding early is which rooms are visible from the one we are doing, because paint, flooring and wood tone all read against whatever is through the doorway. I will ask about the adjoining spaces even when we are only furnishing one of them, so the room you finish first does not box in the ones you do later.

Do I need to know my budget before we start?

A range is enough, but it has to be a real one. Budget does not change how a room is planned—it changes what gets specified: custom upholstery or ready-made, drapery fabricated or bought, one significant light fixture or three modest ones. A number I can work with is what prevents the version of this where you fall for a plan that was never going to happen.

How long does a project take?

It depends, and mostly on things that are not the design. The plan moves at the speed of your decisions. After that the long poles are lead times—custom upholstery, drapery fabrication and stone are the usual ones—and, on a renovation, the contractor’s schedule. If you have a date the room needs to be finished by, say it at the start; it is the one constraint that reliably changes what I specify, because some pieces simply will not arrive in time.

What if I am not in the Charlotte area?

The service runs virtually nationwide and most of it is identical: same measurements, same plan, same specifications you can hand to a workroom or a contractor. What changes is the parts that need me physically in the room—I am not walking the site or placing furniture on install day, so that falls to you or your builder, working from the drawings. Paint deserves extra care at a distance: color behaves differently under your light than under mine, so we sample in your house before anything is committed.

What do you need before the first meeting?

Don’t worry about having everything figured out before we meet. Bring any inspiration, photos, existing plans, or selections you already have, and we’ll work through the rest together.

Can I keep furniture I already own?

Yes, and it usually makes a room better rather than worse. Tell me what you like, what was expensive, and what is genuinely not up for discussion — those pieces get measured and planned around instead of quietly designed out.

Do I buy the furniture myself, or do you?

I handle the ordering process for all approved furniture and décor, including placing orders, communicating with vendors, tracking shipments, and coordinating deliveries—so you don’t have to manage the details yourself.

Can you work alongside my architect or builder?

Yes, and it works best when we overlap early. What they get is contractor- and workroom-ready specification, which is the format they can actually build from rather than a mood board they have to interpret.

What if I only want the plan, not the install day?

That is a normal way to do it. The plan stands on its own and is written to be handed over, so you can carry it out at your own pace or hand it to someone else.

How do you handle rooms that are open to one another?

As one decision. Sightlines are the reason a room that looked right on its own stops working once you stand in the doorway of the next one, so anything visible from the room we are doing gets considered even when it is not in scope.

What happens if something is discontinued or back-ordered?

You hear it at selection time rather than after you have committed, and an alternate is specified alongside it. Lead times are part of the choice, not a surprise that arrives later.

How involved do I have to be?

Less than most people expect, but not nothing. The plan moves at the speed of your decisions, so the moments that need you are the ones where a choice is genuinely yours — everything between them is mine to carry.

Other ways to work together

Not quite the right fit?

A white kitchen with open shelves and a marble backsplash, seen across a pale sectional from the living room01

Kitchen & Bath Design

Make every permanent decision with confidence before construction begins—from cabinetry and tile to lighting and finishes.

Explore Kitchen & Bath Design
Tatyana holding a fan of paint decks in a doorway02

Paint Color Consultations

I’ll help you choose colors that complement your lighting, finishes, and surroundings—so your home finally feels cohesive from one space to the next.

Available in person in the Charlotte area or virtually nationwide.

Explore Paint Consultations
Living room with a curved bouclé sofa, fluted side table and an arched mirror over the mantel03

Furniture & Room Design

Turn an unfinished room into a space that feels complete.

I help you select the right furniture, lighting, and finishing details to bring everything together.

Explore Furniture & Room Design
Living room with a cream sofa, tan swivel chairs and tall windows onto the deck04

Virtual Design Consultation

During a focused consultation, we’ll work through the decisions keeping you stuck and create a clear direction you can confidently follow.

Available in person in the Charlotte area or virtually nationwide.

Explore Design Consultations
Brick colonial porch dressed with garland and candles down the front steps05

Seasonal Styling

Four ways to have Christmas done for you, from the tree alone to the whole house and the porch.

Everyone is quoted after I’ve seen the rooms.

Explore Seasonal Styling

Let’s make your next decision the easy one

Ready to start?

Tell me what you’re working on, and let’s choose the right next step together.

Let’s talk about your home

Start in the way that feels easiest.

Ready to share the details? Complete the project inquiry form, and I’ll recommend the best next step.

Prefer to talk first? Book a free 15-minute call to ask about my services and see which option fits your project.

Tatyana, Charlotte interior designer
TatyanaInterior designer
& your designer BFF
“Every good room starts with one honest conversation about how you actually live.”

Not sure which service you need?

Let’s find the right next step for your home.

Book a complimentary 15-minute Project Fit Call to briefly share what you’re working on, ask questions about my services, and determine which option best fits your project.

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The long version

How a room actually gets decided.

Most rooms that don't work weren't decorated badly. They were decided in the wrong order. A sofa gets bought because it was on sale in March, the rug is chosen to go with the sofa, the paint is chosen to go with the rug, and by the time anyone thinks about where the lamps plug in, the only outlet is behind the piece that can't move. Every individual choice was reasonable. The room still feels like it's arguing with itself.

Full-service design is really just the discipline of settling those decisions in a sequence that doesn't paint you into a corner — on paper, where changing your mind is free. By the time anything is ordered, the layout is drawn to your measurements, the palette is agreed across every room you can see from the doorway, the lighting is planned down to which switch does what, and every piece on the list has a dimension beside it. What follows is how that actually runs, what it includes, and the places it most often goes wrong.

What "full-service" covers, and where it stops

The phrase gets used loosely, so here is the specific version. A full-service project produces a plan you could hand to a contractor, a workroom and a furniture vendor and have all three build the same room. That means:

  • space planning drawn to your measurements
  • a material and finish direction room by room
  • paint coordinated across adjoining spaces
  • a lighting plan with placement and switching
  • furniture and fabric selections with full specifications
  • window treatments
  • placement on install day

What it does not include is construction. I don't hold your contract, pull permits or manage trades. On a renovation I work alongside your builder — early, because the useful moments are before the walls close, not after. If your project is mainly cabinetry and tile, kitchen and bath design is the narrower service built for exactly that. If you already know what you want and need someone to place and chase the orders, that's furniture sourcing.

The order decisions have to happen in

This is the part that saves the most money, and it costs nothing to get right.

Start with what cannot move

Floors, countertops you're keeping, brick, stone, the roof, the window frames, a fireplace surround. These set the undertone everything else has to live with. A "warm white" is a different color in a room with red oak floors than it is over pale engineered plank, and no amount of choosing carefully at the paint store changes that. If you're keeping a floor, the floor leads.

Then the largest upholstered pieces

The sofa, the sectional, the bed. They occupy the most square footage, they have the longest lead times, and their scale determines what fits around them. Choosing a rug before a sofa is backwards — the rug has to hold the furniture, so it has to know how big the furniture is.

Then everything that reacts

Rugs, case goods, lighting, paint, art, drapery. These are the reactive layer. They're chosen against decisions already made, which is why they're fast once the first two stages are settled and agonizing when they aren't.

If you take one thing from this page: don't buy the accent chair first. It's the most tempting purchase and the least useful one, because everything it's meant to complement doesn't exist yet.

Measuring a room so the plan is real

A layout drawn from guessed dimensions is a mood board with furniture on it. What I need before drawing anything:

  • the room's width and length
  • ceiling height
  • the position and size of every window and door, and where the doors swing
  • the location of outlets, switches, vents and returns
  • any radiator, hearth or built-in
  • photographs from all four corners plus one straight up at the ceiling

Ceiling height matters more than people expect. It changes the correct height for drapery, the scale of a chandelier, the depth of a sofa back that will look right rather than squat. Charlotte's housing stock swings hard here — a 1920s bungalow in Dilworth with 9-foot ceilings and a two-story great room in Waxhaw are different design problems even with identical square footage.

The clearances below are the ones I check on every plan. They're not style; they're whether the room is comfortable to walk through.

WhatWorking figureWhy it matters
Main walkway through a room30–36 inBelow 30 in two people can't pass, and the room feels tighter than it is
Coffee table to sofa14–18 inClose enough to set a glass down without standing up
Dining chair pull-out36 in behind the table edge42–48 in if that side is also the route past the table
Rug under a seating groupFront legs on, minimumAll legs on is better; a rug that touches nothing floats
Drapery rod above the window4–8 in below the ceilingHung at the window casing, it makes the wall look shorter
Drapery rod widthCasing plus 8–12 in each sideSo the panels stack off the glass and the window reads full
Dining chandelier30–34 in above the tableAdd 3 in for every foot of ceiling over 8 ft
Nightstand to mattress topWithin 2 in, either wayA lamp you have to reach up to is a lamp you stop using

Sightlines decide more than the room does

Nearly every home built here in the last thirty years is open plan to some degree, which means you are almost never looking at one room. You're looking at a kitchen and the family room behind it and a slice of the entry beyond that. A color scheme that is lovely in isolation and unrelated to its neighbor reads as a mistake the moment you stand in the doorway.

So the plan considers everything visible from the room in scope, whether or not it's being touched. Trim carried consistently through a house is the single cheapest thing that makes it read as one house. Where a wall color changes, it should change at an inside corner or a doorway casing — not in the middle of an open sightline, where the eye reads it as an unfinished patch. There's more on this in keeping a design cohesive through a remodel.

Lighting is a plan, not a shopping list

Lighting is where I see the most money spent on the wrong thing. A beautiful fixture in the wrong place, at the wrong height, on the wrong switch, in the wrong color temperature, is an expensive way to make a room feel like a waiting area.

A lighting plan has four parts:

  • Ambient light that fills the room.
  • Task light where you actually do things — reading, chopping, applying makeup.
  • Accent light on the things worth looking at.
  • And control: which fixtures share a switch, what's on a dimmer, what you can turn on at 6am without waking the house.

Two numbers do most of the work. Aim for 2700K on lamps and most fixtures — anything cooler reads clinical in a room with warm finishes, and mixing temperatures within one sightline is the most common lighting error I correct. And measure output in lumens rather than watts, because LED wattage tells you nothing about brightness; this piece walks through the conversion. For fixture-by-fixture placement, island lighting and bathroom lighting cover the two rooms that go wrong most often.

What a specification actually contains

The deliverable isn't a mood board. A mood board is a feeling; a specification is an instruction.

  • For every piece it names the vendor, the item and finish, exact dimensions, the fabric or material with its grade, the quantity, the lead time, and where it goes in the room.
  • For paint it names the color, the number and the sheen for every surface.
  • For lighting it names the fixture, the bulb and the switching.

The reason for that level of detail is simple: it removes interpretation. Your painter shouldn't have to decide what "soft greige" means. Your workroom shouldn't have to guess a pleat style. When a specification is complete, the room that gets built is the room that was designed, and you can hold it up against what arrives.

Working with what you already own

Keeping furniture almost always makes a room better rather than worse. A house where everything arrived on the same truck in the same month looks like a showroom, and showrooms are not comfortable. What I need from you is honesty about three categories: what you love, what was expensive, and what is genuinely not up for discussion — your grandmother's secretary, the dining table you'll be buried with.

Those pieces get measured and planned around. Occasionally I'll suggest moving something to a different room, where it does better work. Reupholstery is worth costing out when a frame is solid; a well-made frame outlives three fabrics, and a cheap one isn't worth the labor.

Lead times, and why the order of ordering matters

  • Upholstery is typically the long pole — custom pieces commonly run 10 to 16 weeks, sometimes longer, and that's before freight.
  • Case goods in stock can arrive in two to three weeks.
  • Custom drapery depends on the workroom's queue plus fabric availability.
  • Rugs vary enormously.
  • Lighting is usually quick unless it's back-ordered, which happens more than anyone would like.

Which means the sequence of ordering is not the sequence of deciding. Long-lead items go on order first even though they're expensive and frightening, because everything else can catch up. If a piece is discontinued or back-ordered, you should hear it at selection time with an alternate already specified beside it — not three weeks before an install date.

If chasing acknowledgments, tracking freight and inspecting deliveries isn't something you want to spend your evenings on, that's the whole point of the procurement service.

Where projects go wrong in Charlotte specifically

Builder-grade lighting and trim left in place. The fastest visible improvement in most 2000s-era homes here isn't furniture — it's replacing the fixtures and correcting the trim. There's a whole piece on this.

Two-story great rooms furnished at one-story scale. Standard-height drapery and a 36-inch mirror in a room with an 18-foot wall makes the furniture look like it's for children. Scale up, or the volume wins.

Red clay and light floors. It's a real consideration for entries and mudrooms. Pale, flat-finished flooring at a back door in this region is a maintenance decision as much as an aesthetic one.

North-facing rooms and cool grays. A gray that looked sophisticated on the chip goes blue and cold in a north room. This is the single most common reason people repaint, and it's why a palette gets tested in the actual room — see the paint consultation or the write-ups on Agreeable Gray and Accessible Beige.

Rugs, drapery and the two things that finish a room

If a room feels almost right but not quite, it's nearly always one of these two.

A rug that's too small is the most common furnishing error there is. The rug has to hold the seating group, not sit inside it like a bath mat. At minimum the front legs of every upholstered piece sit on it; all legs on is better and makes the room read considerably larger. In a dining room the rug must extend far enough that a chair stays on it when pulled out — usually 24 to 30 inches beyond the table edge on every side.

Drapery is the other one, and it's almost always hung too low and too narrow. The rod goes high — 4 to 8 inches below the ceiling, not at the window casing — and wide, extending 8 to 12 inches past the casing on each side so the panels stack off the glass. Panels should break at the floor rather than float above it. That single adjustment makes a standard builder window look like an architectural one, and it costs nothing extra at the point of ordering.

How involved you need to be

Less than most people expect, but not nothing. The plan moves at the speed of your decisions. The moments that need you are the ones where the choice is genuinely yours — how you use the room, what you can't live without, what the budget really is. Everything between those moments is mine to carry.

A real budget number works better than a vague one. It doesn't change how the room is planned; it changes what gets specified into it and which pieces are worth the weight. Telling me the number early means the first presentation is one you can act on rather than one that has to be redone smaller.

Where to start

If you have a whole house or a full renovation ahead, start here — send photographs, rough measurements and a note about what's already ordered or already decided. If you're not sure the scope justifies a full project, an hour on a virtual consultation will tell you, and you'll leave with next steps either way. If the question is really "what color," the paint service is the direct answer.

You can see how finished rooms come together in the portfolioThe Heart of the Home and A Fresh Start, Beautifully Reimagined are both whole-room projects planned this way, and The finishing layer shows what the last ten percent actually does.